Maangai Saadham - Reminiscing Summers at Chennai!

It is May, which translates to Summerest at Chennai. For the uninitiated Chennai-ite, we have four seasons back at Chennai - Summer (December - February), Summerer (March - April), Summerest (May - August) and If-Fortunate-Wet (September - November). Summerest is economically bad, because it is the root-cause of shooting electric bills, medical bills, cosmetic bills, cool-drink bills, and transportation bills. With Katri-Veyyil (Agni Nakshatram) at it's peak people refuse to leave air-conditioned rooms to go outside sans an air-conditioned cars, thick layers of sunscreens and a bottle or two of frozen-coke at hand. But for the seasoned Summerest foodie soul (not me), Summerest is the best. There are cart-loads of Water Melons, Musk melons, Jack Fruits, Goose Berries and juicy Mangoes. Quirky vendors are all afoot on the street with their refrigerated boxes brimming with Paal-Ice, Kulfis, Cola-Ice, Nannari Sherbats and Vettiver drinks. One only needs to step out of home and head to the nearest market street (T-Nagar, Purashawalkam, Aminjikarai, Thiruvanmiyur...) to take it all in.

Armed with all these Summerest specials, all paattis, athais, chitthis, ammas, periammas and every other conceivable female relative from the last generation rush back home to make them into delicacies that are available only during those burning months. Musk Melon Coolers, Jack-Fruit Seed curries, Gooseberries in Simple Syrup and of course Mango Pickles, Mango Pacchadis, Mango Squash, Mango Jams... I have to stop somewhere, for the king of fruits and it's raw counterpart are used in a delightfully large number of ways. 

The recipe here is one that my cousin sister makes for a quick lunch during the most sweat-bathed days, when people want to run out of the kitchen at the earliest excuse available. It is made for picnics and festivals, for get-togethers and lunch-boxes, and it tastes like summer in your mouth!

MAANGAI SAADHAM (RAW MANGO RICE) (Serves 2-3)
Set-up Time :  10 minutes

Experiment Run-Time : 30 minutes

The Shopping List

          Set 1: For the Base
          Raw Rice : 2 Cup
          Oil : 1 tbsp
          Salt : a pinch
          Water : 3 1/2 Cups

          Set 2: Flavorings & Seasonings

          Raw Mango : 1 Medium sized, sour as can be

          Ginger : 1 inch piece, grated

          Green Chilies : 6-7, sliced
          Groundnuts : 1/2 Cup
          Mustard Seeds : 1 tsp
          Chana Dal : 1 Tbsp
          Red Chilies : 2-3, crushed
          Urad Dal : 1 Tbsp
          Asafoetida : a pinch
          Salt : as required
          Oil : 2 Tbsp

Methodology

1. Prepare rice as is usually done using the ingredients in Set 1. Rice-Cooker, Pressure Cooker, open vessel - anything is fine. Forget not to add the oil, for it helps to retain the integrity of every individual grain. Once done, spread it on a large plate and allow the cooked rice to cool.

2. Grate the raw mango, skin and all. Do throw away the seed though.

3. Heat the oil in a pan. Once hot enough, add all the items in Set 2, starting with the mustard (wait till it crackles), Chana Dal, Urad Dal, Red Chilies, Green Chilies, Asafoetida, Ginger, Salt and Groundnuts. Cook on a low flame until the groundnuts start to get browned. (If you have roasted groundnuts, add them at the end, just before serving).

4. Add the grated mango to the pan and continue to cook on a medium flame.

5. Continue cooking, until the mango softens sufficiently and all the contents come together in a fragrant paste like mass. Remove from flame and cool. This is what is called the Maangai Thokku. If stored in a dry glass bottle, it keeps well in the refrigerator for about a week.

6. Gently mix the Maangai Thokku with the cooled rice in a bowl large enough to hold them. Hands usually work the best, especially to break lumps of cooked rice and ensure homogenous mixing. Queasy people may use a strong wooden ladle.

7. Check for salt and serve with papads, a dry curry or some raita.

One mouthful of this quick variety rice, as they tend to be called in South-India, and you are hooked for life. It is sour and spicy and crunchy and pasty and a lot of other things at the same time. I can inhale large quantities of this delicacy at one sitting, especially with some aloo curry and a jug of seasoned buttermilk. It brings along memories of summer vacations, impromptu picnics, and large family gatherings. 

Maangai Saatham tends to remain good for a few days if stored in a cool dry place. I usually make it in large quantities, but it never seems to last with all the people around. And here in Cincinnati, it is a pain to get the mangoes to be right. Apparently the words 'sour' and 'green-mangoes' do not get to come in the same sentence this side of the Mississippi. This was one of the rare times that everything came together so well. I will carry the taste in my memories until the next perfect mango comes along.

Paella de Picante Verduras - A Spanish feat!

Maybe it is something to do with Katrina's appreciation of Hrithik cooking Paella on their holiday in Valencia, in the movie Zindagi Na Milegi Dubaara. But it is odd that every time someone mentions Spain, all that my mind can think of is a pan of steaming hot Paella, served beautifully by one of Valencia's famous beaches. No thoughts of bull-fights. No visions of La Sagrada Familia. And definitely not even a flash of Real Madrid. Only Paella... and the beaches.

Paella is a rice dish, akin to our Biriyani, that has its origins in the Valencian region of southeastern Spain. Often mistakenly viewed as Spain's national dish by outsiders (Given its apparent popularity, I wouldn't blame the Non-Spaniards), it is prepared in a myriad number of ways, the most common ones being the Valencian Paella, the Seafood Paella, and the Mixed Paella. The dish derives it's name from the French word paelle (or the Spanish word paellera), meaning 'pan'; in reference to the special shallow pans that are used in its preparation. Traditionally, the dish is served directly from the paellera, and guests enjoy it with a number of side offerings. The use of these paelleras ensures that the bottom layer of rice is subtly toasted in the cooking process. This layer of semi-burnt toasted rice, locally called socarrat, is considered be a delicacy in it's own right and is essential for a good Paella. It reminds me of the days when we used to fight  for the burnt-rice leftover at the bottom of the Biriyani pan. Deliciousness! 

A special ingredient required for Paella is the short grained Spanish Bomba rice; something that I have not been able to find in the aisles of my local supermarket. However, last Friday, a friend had taken me to Trader Joe's and I could hardly contain my joy when I saw a packet of Arborio on their shelves. While Arborio is technically Italian and is not the traditional rice used for making Paella, it is known to be an excellent substitute. And more importantly, since I did not want to put off the making of the dish any more, citing lack of ingredients as an excuse, I came home armed with some fine virgin olive oil, a pack of Arborio, and lots of vegetables, fully prepared for the culinary-experiment the next day. In the recipe for Spicy Vegetable Paella that follows, I have replaced the meat used in traditional Paella with vegetables and also added some additional spices to take it a notch higher on the zestiness index. And of course it was awesome. Está delicioso!

PAELLA dE PICANTE VERDURAS (Serves 3)
Set-up Time : 20 minutes

Experiment Run-Time : 45 minutes

The Shopping List

          Set 1: At the Chopping Board
          Onion : 1 Large, sliced thinly
          Red Pepper : 1, sliced into thick strips
          Mushrooms : 4-5, cut along its length
          Green Chilies : 3 slit along its length
          Garlic : 2 cloves, minced
          Carrots : 1, julienned
          Tomato : 1 Large, finely chopped
          Frozen Peas : 1/2 cup
          Frozen Broccoli : 1/2 cup 

          
          Set 2: From the Spice Rack

          Saffron : 1tsp, crushed
          Crushed Red Pepper : 1 Tbsp

          Salt : as required

          Pepper : 1 tsp

          Set 3: Everything Else

          Arborio/Bomba/Calasparra : 1 Cup
          Vegetable stock : 2 cups
          Warm water : 1 cup
          Virgin Olive Oil : 1 Tbsp

          Equipments
          A shallow pan, preferably heavy

Methodology

1. Heat the olive oil in the pan, and add the onions, minced garlic, green chilies and the sliced red peppers from Set 1. Sauté the vegetables with a pinch of salt and the crushed red peppers from Set 3, until the onions begin to turn brown in caramelization.

2. Add a cup of the chosen rice to the sautéd vegetables and coat the vegetables with the rice grains.

3. Add the vegetable stock from Set 3, along with a cup of warm water, the mushrooms, and the chopped tomatoes, to the rice-vegetable mixture.

4. When the stock comes to a gentle boil, crush the saffron strands between your fingers and add it to the merrily boiling dish. This is also where you add any additional salt. Depending on the sodium content in the stock, it maybe necessary to adjust the salt to your tastes. Cover the pan with a lid and let the rice cook for about 25 minutes.

5. Open the pan and add the carrots, broccoli, and peas to the nearly-cooked rice. Also add half-a-cup of water if the rice looks dry. Cover the pan once again and allow the added vegetables to cook for an additional 10-15 minutes.

6. Open the pan one last time to check if the rice is done. Do not stir the rice, as it may dislodge the layer of socarrat at the bottom. If done to satisfaction, take the pan off the heat and allow to sit covered for about 20 minutes. This provides ample time for the rice to absorb any of the remaining broth and adds additional flavor to the rice. 

7. Serve directly from the pan. You may also sprinkle a little pepper onto individual servings for an added zest. 

     
Paella is usually served with a simple tossed salad and a dash of olive oil and pepper on top. I had it plain, in all its original glory. In the beginning it tasted like a starchy version of our pulao, but with every spoon, I realized the uniqueness of the dish; from the slightly chewy rice grains and a strong saffron flavor to the additional taste of the vegetable stock and the little socarrat that I was lucky to get. And the best part was that I liked more when it had gone cold from all the time that I had taken for the photo-session. I am so inspired that I have already planned to try the Seafood Paella with the rest of the Arborio rice. Here's to the Spaniards for some kick-ass contribution to Gastronomy. Viva La Paella!